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" The Futaleufu is so beautiful, so
magical
a river with its incredible azure water,
surrounded as it is by snow capped mountains,
that we from now on will compare all other
rivers to it and find them wanting"
-Suzy Calof, Atherton, CA
DAY 3: PUERTO
MONTT / CHAITEN / RIO FUTALEUFU / CAMPO MAPU LEUFU
This morning we take an 18 passenger twin-engine plane down
the northern Patagonian coast over fjords and mountains to the
small fishing village of Chaiten. (view)
Boarding a comfortable Mercedes bus we drive three hours, viewing
snow-capped mountains, lakes and rivers to our training put-in
on the lower Futaleufu River. After lunch and a safety talk
we begin our river training by doing a swim test and flip-drill.
(view) (these drills
are optional for Class 4 participants). We then run a series
of long, powerful Class 4+ rapids. In the late afternoon we
take out and drive 15 minutes to the entrance of Campo Mapu
Leufu, the first of Earth River’s three private camps.
A half-mile hike takes us into the camp’s interior (Personal
bags are transported by an ox cart). Situated on a secluded
bluff over the river with dramatic 360° views, this wondrous
300 acre private camp with over two miles of riverfront was
purchased by Earth River in 1992. Tent sites offer spectacular
views of granite spires rising from the turquoise river in one
direction and glacier-capped, Alp-like peaks in the other. (Single
tents are available for all individuals at no additional charge).
Dramatically perched on a 120 foot cliff with a stunning views,
is a hand-planed, 18 person wooden hot tub. (view)
(The water is changed daily so no chemicals are necessary.)
Meals are served outside at the cliffside dining area (a covered
dining area is used if it rains). *The camp also has flush toilets,
hot showers and a hand-hewn gazebo-like shelter. (view)
There is also a 30 foot deep pond for kayaking (lessons) and
wonderful swimming at a beach on the main river or in a tributary
stream with waterfalls and deep pools. Hikes from the camp include,
a two hour walk to a lake and old growth forest and canyoneering
down through the incredible Rio Blanco slot canyon. A professional
masseuse, chef and videographer accompany most expeditions.
(MAPU LEUFU CAMP VIRTUAL
TOUR)
*NOTE: Camp amenities have been added in such a
way as to not take away from the wild nature of the river and
expedition. Sleeping bags, flannel sleeping sheets, pillows
and thick sleeping pads are included at no additional charge.
With the exception of the masseuse ($45 an hour) and the professionally
shot and edited trip video ($185), everything from dinner on
the night you arrive in Puerto Montt until you arrive back in
Puerto Montt at the conclusion of the trip is included in the
cost.
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DAY
4: RIO FUTALEUFU / EARTH RIVER CAVE CAMP
In the morning we drive an hour to the in-put
on the upper river. Soon we enter the wild, sheer walled Class
5 Inferno Canyon. Racing between imposing walls, hundreds of
feet high, the pulsing river boasts some of the most impressive
commercially run rapids in the world including, Infierno (view),
Purgatorio (view),
Danza de los Angeles and Escala De Jacoba. Each rapid is separated
by a swift pool which allows enough time for rescue and recovery
if necessary. In the afternoon we raft down to Campo Casa de
Piedra, the private, 1,000 acre Earth River Cave Camp. This
is the most exotic and diverse river camp in the world.
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"The Earth River Cave Camp is a natural adult-size playground.
Like a grown up version of a tree fort, it's the type of never-never
land that would make Peter Pan and the Lost Boys jealous."
-American Way Magazine (American Airlines)
Not a cave in the true sense, but a massive overhanging white
granite slab that rests on two boulders, the main shelter is
referred to by the locals as the House of Stone. (view)
There is a sand floor, two natural skylights and giant fireplace
in the rear wall that draws smoke through a crack. With an interior
space of over 1,600 square feet, this natural wonder is large
enough to ride a horse inside and can keep the entire group
warm and dry under
any conditions. In front of the main stone shelter is a beautiful
spring-fed pond/lake called Laguito Azul (Little Blue Lake).(view)
Set within a bowl of massive granite towers as high as 300 feet
and surrounded by lush vegetation, Laguito Azul resembles a
giant Japanese garden. Its brilliant blue water is so pure you
can drink it and so clear you can see giant German brown trout
and salmon up to 25 pounds swimming 30 feet down. Kayaks are
available and gliding over the transparent water has an almost
surreal feeling to it. A few hundred feet beyond Laguito Azul
rages the most spectacular rapid on the river, Zeta, a Class
5-6, Z-shaped flume cut into solid granite. Just downstream
of Zeta, carved into the granite by the river in higher flows,
is a heart-shaped, three foot deep water-filled pothole, which
we heat to 105°. With smooth,
45° sloping walls to lean against and fresh water every
day, this
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chemical-free stone
hot tub comfortably fits twelve people. The smooth granite ledges
around the tub are ideal for relaxing and slope gently into the
calm aerated blue pool below Zeta making transition from hot to
cold water extremely easy. Soaking at night with the brilliant
stars of the southern hemisphere aglow is an unforgettable experience.
The most popular place to sleep at Cave Camp is in one of the
hand-hewn, cliff dwellings perched on and between the massive
boulders and cliffs overlooking Zeta Rapid. The dwellings have
walls and a door on the trailside for privacy. The sides facing
the river, however, are entirely open and the birds-eye view from
your pillow of the tumultuous turquoise water slicing through
the rapid’s narrow granite slot is something you’ll
never forget. In the vicinity of the cliff dwellings is a large
cliffside dining area, 18 person wooden hot tub and a second spring-fed
swimming pond. The cliff dwellings, hot tub and dining area are
all well hidden from the Futaleufu, yet through the trees they
command the river’s most impressive camp view. A series
of dramatic hand-hewn log sky bridges, 30 feet off the ground,
link the Zeta dining/sleeping area to the main stone shelter so
that in times of inclement weather the transition between the
two areas is effortless. Downstream from Zeta Rapid is Lost Beach.
This beautiful private beach is so tucked away that people float
right by it on the main river without ever knowing it is there.
The camp also has horses, flush toilets, tents and horses.
(CAVE CAMP VIRTUAL TOUR)
If
you had trouble loading the virtual tour and would like to see a
non virtual version of the camp with photographs, click
here.
DAY 5: CAVE CAMP / TYROLEAN TRAVERSE
/ TREE HOUSE CAMP
This morning we set up a dramatic Tyrolean traverse across the
river. (view) Wearing
a climbing harness attached to a pulley, participants pull themselves
across a rope stretched between sheer granite walls over the
heart of Zeta Rapid. Although not risky or particularly strenuous,
hanging and then crossing over the class 6 rapid is extremely
exhilarating. Upon |
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reaching the other side, we begin climbing out of the inner
canyon. *The moderately strenuous 1,600 verticle foot hike takes
us past a beautiful 100 foot tributary waterfall and breathtaking
views of the river: Tower of the Winds, Laguito Azul and dramatic
peaks rise from the river valley. (view)
After two hours we crest the top of the inner canyon and enter
a wonderful old growth hardwood forest. Tucked away in the center
of this enchanted, moss-draped land of giants is 10 acre, 50
foot deep Lake of the Frogs. Cut out by the glacier, the lake
drops straight off the edge like a giant, bottomless swimming
pool. Surrounded by native old- growth forest on three sides,
with dramatic mountain views on the fourth, this intimate body
of water offers wonderful opportunities for swimming and canoeing
(there are two canoes). A natural wood deck and a hand made
16 person hot tub sit on the edge of the lake. Hidden back in
the trees is a hand-hewn log gazebo structure with a fireplace
in case of inclement weather. Just beyond the gazebo, 35 feet
up in a majestic closely-knit stand of old growth giants are
8 wonderful, hexagon shaped tree houses. They are connected
like the spokes of a wheel from one central tree and a circular
staircase. These amazing architectural gems are each unique
and were hand crafted by a Chilean master carpenter. Each tree
house was designed to be self-supported and not a single nail
was placed into the trees. In the afternoon there is the option
of swimming and relaxing in the hot tub or taking a short hike
to the breathtaking Tree House Camp Canyon Overlook. Engulfed
by snow-capped mountains on all sides, this wonderful spot affords
us 360 degree views including two gorgeous lakes and seven miles
of the turquoise Futaleufu River canyon stretching as far as
the eye can see. Condors are frequently seen soaring in the
updrafts. We spend the evening suspended above the lower canopy
with stunning views of the lake, surrounding forest and mountains.
(TREEHOUSE CAMP VIRTUAL TOUR)
*Note: Almost anyone who takes their time can do the hike up
to the Tree House Camp, however, those people not wishing to
partake in the hike can spend the night at the Cave Camp with
a guide where the meals will be prepared by the camp chef. These
participants can do the Tyrolean in the morning and then have
the afternoon free to ride horses, visit Lost Beach, kayak on
Laguito Azul or relax in one of the hot tubs. The following
day they will have the chance to join the rest of the group
on the zip line and the tower climb. |
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